Highlighting and Contouring. Don't be a sheep.

I love hightlighting & contouring, I think it's makeup magic, to enhance & bring out features that may be a little hidden, to trick the eye into skimming over certain parts of the face that you don't want to point out - like I said makeup magic.  What I don't get is this sudden craze of everyone wanting to be contoured to within an inch of their lives! So this is what I hate, inexperienced 'Makeup Artist's' slapping on foundation 10 times too dark and 10 times too light and thinking "Ill just blend this all in and that's contouring" No, no love that's not contouring. You're gonna have your client looking like a big orange, cakey mess if you do that.  I have clients coming to me asking me to contour their face/nose (a few years ago they wouldn't even know what contouring meant let alone be asking for it!) But what really bothers me is everyone wants it, the thing is, not everyone needs it!  For example, look at the recent Oscars red carpet pics, do you see any of the actresses Kimmy K'd up? No, I'll tell you why, because its either done so well you can't see, the right shade products are used (not 10 times darker and lighter) or they simply didn't need it. If you're contouring your face and you end up looking caked in makeup, you're doing something wrong. Contouring is supposed to be subtle, like I said earlier it's to trick the eye into either not looking or being drawn to certain features. I'm talking about real life contouring here, not photo shoots or anything like that, in shoots you can get away with doing much heavier makeup - if fact your supposed to go heavier because of the strong lighting etc.  Kim Kardashian made heavy contouring well known to the average person, her makeup artist uses very heavy 'drag' style contouring on her because she can pull it off, most of the time. Obviously, Kim is gorgeous, so girls have seen ''THAT' famous photo of her mid transformation and thought "I want to look like that, and now I can!" Sorry girls, no you can't if it was that easy i'd be waltzing out of my house looking like a Kardashian every day, but unfortunately I have makeup brushes, not magic wands.  Now, I'm not saying don't try it, at the end of the day you should have fun and experiment with makeup - but take the photo's floating around of 'How to contour' with a pinch of salt. What someone else wants to highlight you may want to diminish. For example these photos show that you should highlight your chin, now if you have a prominent chin that's a bit pointy and on the large size why would you want to draw attention to that?! You wouldn't! Look at your own face, really study it and decide - What are my best features, what do I want to highlight, what do I want to diminish, what needs a bit of help? Maybe your eyes are hooded and you want to cheat a great socket line, that's contouring too!  It's not all cheekbones and slimmer noses. Everyone is different, that's the beauty of makeup, every face is different which makes every step you do on a client (or yourself) different. Play around with it, use the right shades/products for you and don't be sucked in to the hype of it all.

The Evolution of (my) Eyebrows

I was looking through old photo's the other day, and I caught a glimpse at my 14 year old self.
After going through a mix of emotions some being, shock, nausea, horror, gut wrenching screams of WHY! I finally shouted aloud - "what the hell was I doing to my brows!?"

I closed my eyes and tried to think back all those years ago, I needed to find out exactly how I had murdered my eyebrows. Back to the scene of the crime - like an episode of CSI my mind rewinded back 13 years to my little naive self standing in-front of the bathroom mirror. I now remember it clearly, like it was yesterday. If only I could go back, take my little teenage self's hand and give her some words of wisdom. Ok I'm being slight dramatic, but wait for it.......

There I was looking in the bathroom mirror, my eyes focused on my brows specifically - I don't really know why, but for some reason I had suddenly become fixated on them. "I know.." I thought to myself, "I'll shave them"..... Yes you are reading this right people, SHAVE. My dad's razor was just sat there, staring at me, willing me to use it. The next part is a blur, I don't know if the trauma of what happened has forced the memory to be permanently removed!

Exhibit one...... Like my fringe?

Exhibit two....... Lemon and blue wallpaper, Leonardo DiCaprio on my wall, just smacks of the 90's doesn't it! P.S scousers, I had a Lacoste tracky on aswell, you're not seeing that though, ever!

So as you can see, it was bad. One teacher in school ( my science teacher, I won't mention names) once described them as 'Disgusting' pretty harsh, and thinking back hers weren't much better. But that says alot, a middle aged woman with thinning brows that had zero shape had described mine as disgusting.

Then I started to think about all the other girls who butchered their brows when they were younger, it happens all the time, and I bet now there is a teenage girl somewhere just thinking about over plucking or if shes like me, taking her dads Gillette and saving a bit of time.

It's honestly took my years and years to get my shape back, and even now I hate even plucking them in-between my brow appointments because I'm terrified the old me will pop up and pluck them into a vile late 90's brow. If you over plucked and haven't been able to get your shape back, just leave them for as long as you can (months even) then go and get them professionally done, fake it if you have to! Get them tinted, pencil them in, do whatever it takes. You can do it girls!

These are my brows now, with a bit of TLC and brow powder of course!

Brows have changed throughout the years, but remember this, the brow choices you make now will haunt you forever! Over pluck and they may never grow back, leave them full and natural then when you're old you will be know as, that little old lady with the fabulous brows.

Some examples of the changing brow shapes throughout the decades.

1920s 

1980s

1950s

1990's (the look I was clearly going for!)

2000's

Layer up your lashes!

This is just a little blog to show you all how layering lashes can create a completely different look.

When you think of layering lashes, Katie Price probably pops into your head and her 6 sets of layered lashes or something ridiculous like that - but you don't have to weigh down your eye lids to have fuller, longer lashes!

I wanted to create a Kardashian style longer, thicker lash without the overall heaviness of using a massive thick pair of lashes. As you can see by the above photo I used a wispy shorter & more natural style, then over the top of these I added winged out, longer lashes. This was to create fullness at the base and length on the end.

This is me wearing the first set of lashes, as you can see they add fullness to the base but are a lovely, natural finish - nothing Kardashian style about these. On to the next pair!








So, you have put your first set on as normal, remembering to trim the lashes if the are too wide for your eyes - do exactly the same with the second pair, trim, apply glue and let the glue go tacky, after about 30 seconds they should be ready to apply. Look down while in front of a mirror and carefully place the second pair directly on top of the first pair, making sure to get as close to the lash line as possible.

This is the finished result. Just add a coat of mascara on your bottom and top lashes and a swipe of liquid or gel liner on your top lash line to hide the lashes. As you can see they are longer, full, flirty and NOT heavy at all - using two pairs of light lashes will not only save the weight on your poor eyelids they will be sooo much easier to apply than those thicker lash bands (that I hate!)


Have fun with trying out different styles together, mix and match to find the perfect style for you.






I used Eldora lashes style H135 & H125 

S/S14 Makeup Trends from NYFW

New York Fashion Week S/S14 has just finished, we are barely in our winter coats yet the fashion houses are telling us what to wear next spring/summer!

As always I had my beady eyes on each show, and while I appreciate (and often drool) over the beautiful gowns, shirts and accessories my main focus is all about the new emerging makeup, hair and nail trends.

I won’t give a  rundown of every show, but I will tell you my top spots for new makeup trends for next year.

First up GLITTER! Yes you heard me right, Glitter! (girly squeals)

We saw sparkle from lots of shows this year, my two favourite being Jenny Packham & ICB.

At Jenny Packham Key Makeup Artist Talia Shobrook for Laura Mercier described the look as ‘Combining a flush of innocence with a hint of naughtiness’. The makeup looked  romantic, girly and sweet. Hair at the show was very 70’s with big flowing, bouncy curls and nails were painted nude with a bit of sparkle added - This was my favourite look by far!  

Photo by @vitalphotonyc Instagram

ICB show makeup and photo by @sstrazzere Instagram

      

Jenny Packham S/S14

Next up I noticed fresh, flawless, dewy faces. Described by many of the key makeup artist's as 'sporty' think 'just got out the gym glow' (without the sweat and panting) Personally I love the glowing skin look over matte skin, and this is going to be HUGE next S/S, so next year go easy on the powder and keep to a dewy liquid foundation or tinted moisturiser.

Vera Wang S/S14

Do you like wear orange lipstick often? No? Well you will be next year according to the runway! Orange lips where all over the catwalk at NYFW - buy an orange lippy or if you are a little hesitant, a sheer orange lipgloss and try the trend for yourself next year.

Blue eye shadow also made an impact this year, with everything from pale, sheer blue to bright blue - basically if you love blue next year is your year. For an on trend blue stick to cool mid toned shades. 

Marc Jacobs S/S14 

Obviously there are many more emerging trends for next year including sleek straight hair (throw away the rollers?! NEVER) and matte nails, but above are my favourite trends. Of course you don't need to try them all, and if you simply hate blue eye shadow don't wear it! But have fun with new trends, its always good to try new things. 

Up next London fashion week. I'll be keeping my fashionable beady eyes out for the new trends from this side of the pond, I imagine I will see alot of the above, and hopefully more!

Why MAC ain't all that.........

Hello everyone! I've wanted to write this blog for a while, I feel like MAC has taken over the makeup world and many people are blinded by the fact they think MAC is 'the best' Makeup brand. Don't get me wrong there are staples we get from MAC to restock our studio kit including, brush cleaner, blot powder, certain blushes etc - and in no way am I saying MAC is crap, because it's not! Like I said I always shop there for certain products. 

I am just trying to broaden the average girl's makeup horizons and point out there are good (if not better) products by different brands out there, if you're willing to look. 

You walk into MAC in the Met Quarter on a Saturday afternoon and can barely move for the girls in there browsing and buying arm loads of products, when Illamasqua which is just opposite MAC in the Met Quarter is quite empty with only a few people in there. Illamasqua have some fabulous products, from their super pigmented blushes, great foundations (I use their Skin Base foundation on myself) strong lipsticks and great quality brushes along with many more products! Next time you're in the Met Quarter and want to buy some makeup just take a trip to Illamasqua before MAC!
I must also say that a couple of times a year Illamasqua have amazing sales where you can often get an amazing lippy or eyeshadow for just £5! 

I feel like MAC has possibly changed the way they make their makeup (cheaper options maybe, different ingredients?) as I don't feel their eyeshadows are as pigmented as they once used to be & their pigment pots have shrunk by alot and they don't seem to be the same (I have an old Vanilla pigment in the original sized pot and a new Vanilla pigment in the new sized pot and they just don't seem the same quality) 

There are amazing makeup brands everywhere just waiting to be tried, don't get stuck in the MAC makeup rut, take a trip to NARS - where they have some gorgeous products like their cult classic blushes and bronzers, Laura Mercier for the 'best' primer in the world! Also Chanel for their amazing Illusion D'ombre cream eyeshadows. 

If you like online shopping please try Makeup Forever available to buy from one of our favourite makeup shops (makeup heaven!!) www.gurumakeupemporium.com where they stock Makeup Forever's entire range. 
We use ALOT of Makeup Forever in the studio and I couldn't imagine doing makeup without using their products - We absolutely love their HD foundation (which we use in the studio) their Aqua cream's (multi use cream bases for eyes, cheeks and lips which are also waterproof!) and their amazing Fix spray which you spray on after all makeup has finished - your makeup will not budge! Along with many more products. 
We also love Sugar Pill eyeshadows which are super pigmented and very good quality for money available to buy from www.love-makeup.com. 

Obviously I can't name every brand and every product I love here, but, if you are a makeup lover just branch out from your makeup comfort zone and try different brands - I promise you, you will not be disappointed! 

L'Oreal Voluminous Mascara

I've been using L'oreal's Voluminous mascara for a few years now and I love it! 

Firstly if you're thinking about buying this mascara make sure you buy the Carbon Black shade and not just the regular black - There is a different and the regular black isn't as good as the carbon black. The Carbon black is more intense black and you don't need as much of it! 

Like I said I've been using this mascara for a few years now and I've tried ALOT of mascaras before some way more expensive like Dior Blackout (Don't see what all the fuss is about!) YSL, MAC, Benefit etc etc...... 

But this is by far the best I've tried so far, its easy to build up for a fuller lash, it lengthens, it doesn't clump - basically it does everything most mascaras claim to do. Except all the rest fail and L'Oreal's Voluminous beats their mascara ass! 

Like a good MUA I'm always on the look out for new (dare I say) better products, so I'm open to suggestions, if you have a favourite mascara let me know so I can try it. Until then I'll be sticking to my fave. 

TIGI hair wonders

I've exclusively been using TIGI products on my hair for the past 4 weeks or so, I have never really used TIGI before but obviously have heard sooo much about their cult products and yummy smelling 'good enough to eat' shampoo's and conditioners. 

For shampoo and conditioner I have been using TIGI Bed Head Recharge. 

This products promises to "Achieve high octane shine with this new power packed duo – the UV protectant, vitamin-infused line removes pollutants, sweat and build-up to reveal super reflective shine. TIGI Bed Head makes getting shiny beautiful hair easy.

This anti-oxidant rich shampoo and conditioner eliminates nasties

such as pollutants, sweat and build-up, to reveal super-reflective

shine and dazzling results."

Like I said I have been using this product for the past 4 weeks and I can honestly see the difference! My hair is super soft & shiny. 

I have really long hair which is half curly half frizzy (When I brush my hair after washing and letting it dry naturally I look a bit like Diana Ross circa Chain Reaction!) But after using these little gems and blow drying my hair it is frizz free and super sleek, winner! I also only wash my hair once a week, after training it years ago so this shampoo feels like my hair is getting a really deep clean and the conditioner makes my mane feel so soft. 

They smell so good too, I even noticed my boyfriend had used them (hands off pal!) He got a swift telling off. 

Along with these two products I've been using TIGI Hair Reborn 

Reparitive Nocturnal Therapy which is a leave in over night mask. TIGI has brought out a collection to rival more high end brands such as 'Redken and Kerastase' 

This product promises to "Restore hair to it's strongest after just 30 days" 

This treatment is priced at £26.95 which is quite pricey - however this is a big bottle (100ml) you only use this once a week and only use 2-3 pumps, so will last ages!

You emulsify 2-3 pumps and run it through the ends of your hair, leave in your hair over night then wash in the morning. 

I have been using this for 4 weeks too and using this along with the Recharge shampoo and conditioner have got my hair in tip top shape. This treatment has made my hair healthy, sleek and shiny with a salon finish. 

Well done TIGI, where have you been all my life?!